Last night it rained. When I went to bed at an ungodly hour, closer to morning than night, it was still raining. Right now it is just wet, no rain but it will return. The weather report is a high of 48˚ and a low of 14˚. No, that is not a typo.
When I was a kid, I dreamed of traveling around the world. I made a scrapbook of all the places I wanted to go. I got brochures from Logan Airport and a local travel agency. My scrapbook filled me with a longing which fed my dreams. Every year I took geography, and the rest of the world felt closer and closer. I knew more about Europe than any other place. It was history and the Eiffel Tower and on and on. South America grew coffee, bananas and pineapples, a fruit I had never seen except in pictures or cans. I never thought about Asia. It just seemed too far way. When my family went to Niagara Falls, we went across to Canada which became the first country on my already seen list.
Today is Peace Corps’ birthday. It turns 60. Having served in the Peace Corps has defined my life. To say it broadened my horizons is to reduce my experience to a cliche. Back then, Peace Corps PSA’s were on TV and in magazines. In the eighth grade, I was hooked. Eight years later, my senior year in college, I was still hooked. I took a language test and filled out my application. It was mailed in October of 1968. In January I got a packet from Peace Corps all about Ghana. The acceptance letter came a day later, special delivery. My training would begin in June 1969. I walked to North Andover Square and called to accept the invitation. The task of telling my father was designated to my mother. I knew what his reaction would be. He didn’t disappoint. He was furious. He told me Africans smell bad. I wanted to know how many he’d met knowing none would be the answer. He refused to answer. It took until April or May before he begrudgingly said I could go, as if I needed his permission, but I let him have his moment.
In the past 60 years, 240,000 Peace Corps volunteers have served in 142 countries. Ghana was the first.
My memories of Ghana have always been vivid. I knew I would go back some day. That was a given. When Iived in Ghana, I loved my school, my town and, most especially, the Ghanaians. I learned to haggle in the market. I traveled on bone shakers, mammy lorries. I ate foods I hadn’t ever heard of before, and I saw my first real pineapple out of the can. Training took close to 3 months in Ghana. We trainees, Peace Corps jargon for not yet a volunteer, became close in the shared experience. Most of us managed to finish training and be sworn in as volunteers.
The next two years were amazing. I loved teaching, and I loved my town. I especially adored my students. I never tired of the different sounds of Ghana, its languages, roosters at day break, and aunties trying to get my attention to buy from them. The colors of cloth were amazing, and I bought several yards for all the dresses I had a seamster make. When it came time to leave, I etched everything into my memory drawers so I’d never forget.
Ghana has always had my heart. It took me 40 years to get back, but I have been back three times, and, if Covid and my non-existent bank account allow it, I would like to go back one more time with Bill and Peg. I can’t imagine being there without them.
I hope and prayer that Peace Corps rebounds quickly and volunteers are again allowed to give service. I remember hearing that Peace Corps is the best bang for a buck, that the value of the experience far out ways the cost. I found that out ,when 40 years later, I was recognized by former students and serenaded with Leaving on a Jet Plane, Miss Ryan’s song.