Posted tagged ‘Bawku’

”January brings the snow, Makes our feet and fingers glow…”

January 2, 2025

The morning sun is deceptive. When I opened the door for Henry, I was surprised by the wind and the chill it brought. Branches and dead leaves are swaying. I just didn’t notice.

The only event left on my dance card for the week is a dentist appointment today. It is just for a cleaning, but I still am a bit reluctant. I think it is the sound of the drill coupled with childhood memories which bring the reluctance, maybe even fear.

When I was a kid, the new year never really meant much. Nothing changed except the date. I still walked to school, spent my days there, walked home, played, did homework, watched TV, ate dinner, watched more TV then went to bed. The strange thing about this daily routine was I actually never noticed it was a routine, and I was never bored. That boredom didn’t arrive until I was a bit older, a teenager with expectations. That was when I’d whine about having nothing to do. I’d wander the house and throw myself on the couch with such huge sighs you could almost see them in the air. Once I drove my mother crazy because I wanted to go horseback riding for the second time in my life. I didn’t go, a money issue, my mother’s money issue.

I remember one New Year’s Day in Ghana. I visited my Ghanaian family in Bawku. My sister took me to church with her. It was the most glorious, joyful service with singing and dancing. Drums played. The women wore their best three piece dresses made with colorful Ghanaian cloth. The men wore fugus, smocks, dansikas in FraFra, traditional men’s attire only in the north back then. I wore my Ghanaian cloth dress. I danced, probably badly, and clapped during the music. I loved that service, the most wonderful and amazing welcome for any new year.

This morning I took down the old year’s calendar and put up the new year’s, a sloth calendar, a present from Bill and Peg. I threw away the old one day at a time calendar, always a Christmas present from my sister, and opened the new one. I already had appointments to add to it. This is the earliest I’ve caught up with the new year. I hope it bodes well.

“Celebrate endings—for they precede new beginnings.”

December 29, 2023

The rain is still here, but it is a warm day, a day without any wind. I was in the backyard earlier picking up trash and hoping Nala would drop my sandal, one of a pair I bought in 2011 when I went back to Ghana for the first time. I thought it was well hidden. Wrong! She dropped it at the word treat, and the pair has been reunited and hidden in a new spot.

New Year’s Eve never meant much to me when I was a kid. I was usually in bed early. When I woke up the next morning, it was to a new year, but nothing had really changed, just the date on my school papers. As I got older, I really wanted to stay up to midnight. It seemed like the magic hour. When I finally did, it was a bit of a disappointment, blow a few horns, yell Happy New Year and end with a kiss. That was it, a noisy celebration.

When I was a kid, the week after Christmas was quiet. All the anticipation was gone. I mostly either read my new book, I always got new books, or played a new game, we always got a new game or watched TV. The year of my bike I was out the whole week riding. We had no snow that year. I rode all over town proud of my new bike. I went to the movie matinee. I went to Woolworth’s. The week passed slowly.

The first new year I was in Ghana, I visited my Ghanaian family in Bawku. My sister took me to church on New Year’s Eve. It was an amazing service with drums and dancing and singing. The women were all dressed in their finest, their three piece formal dresses made with Ghanaian cloth. The men wore fugus, smocks, the traditional men’s garb in the Upper Region back then. I wore a dress of bright, colorful Ghanaian cloth. That church service was a celebration filled with riots of color and sound. I danced in the aisle. I wished everyone a Happy New Year. We all hugged. That still is the most memorable New Year’s Eve of my life.

“When Peace Corps was first proposed, some in Congress assumed that only men would be volunteers.”

June 24, 2023

We had a bit of rain last night and this morning. It left the air a bit humid. It is also quite warm, 70°. I have no plans to leave the house. I have a to do list, but the paper has yellowed.

I took off Nala’s cone. She was just so sad. I could see it in her eyes. Her head hung down, and she had trouble getting comfortable. Around the stitches looks great. She doesn’t bother them. She slept right beside me last night. All is well in Nala’s world.

My muse seems to be on vacation, perhaps beaten by the rain. I guess this will have to be a Ghana day, my favorite fallback.

My Peace Corps training was completely in Ghana. We started at a town called Winneba. I remember the first morning waking up and remembering I was in Africa. My dorm room was on the second floor. Outside my door I could see the tops of compounds and palm trees, my very first palm trees ever. Breakfast was coffee and rolls, a familiar breakfast. Lunch and dinner were Ghanaian foods, and I wasn’t a fan. Those first three weeks we had hours of language every day. Mine was Hausa. We got shots. We had a medical briefing. We greeted the chief as is the custom. Back then, Ashanti chiefs never spoke directly to people but spoke through linguists who carried staffs, indicators of their positions. The beginnings of my own adventures were when I went to town by myself a few times.

The next three weeks we lived with Ghanaian families who spoke the same languages we were learning. I lived in Bawku. I taught middle school for a week and still had language lessons but only after lunch which we ate together. My favorite time in Bawku was when I visited the compounds where the wives and small children lived. My father had four wives. I walked behind compounds on dirt pathways where I’d pass an outside class of boys sitting on the ground and learning the Koran. Their voices intoned. In the compound I sat and sometimes held babies. The toddlers were afraid of me. I remember a vulture walking around the main part of the compound. The wives made my meals there and sent them to the house. One vivid memory of Bawku is of us sitting around the radio listening to Voice of American and the moon landing.

For the next week we each went to our schools. I met the principal, set up a checking account, sort of moved into my house and roamed the market. I made note of what I needed in my house. I also left luggage and some clothes there so I’d have less to carry.

I’m going to stop there in Bolga to keep you on the edges of your seats. That leaves me with some weeks of training to write about when my muse takes another hike.

“When you learn a thing a day, you store up smart.”

March 21, 2023

Today is already warm at 48°. It is another lovely morning. It is the first full spring day. When I got the papers, I noticed the green pointed tops of the daylillies have poked above the ground. More croci are in boom. The dafs have buds. Spring is running rampant over winter, and I want to scream with joy.

Sometimes I sit here staring at the screen hoping my muse will take notice of the blank page and throw some inspiration my way. I’m still waiting.

Here I go!

When I was a kid, I once went door to door to collect money for some organization I don’t remember, maybe the Jimmy Fund. I was not thinking of altruism. In Boston, at the collective site, were Miss Kitty and Doc from Gunsmoke. I wanted to meet them. My father drove me into town. I carried my money in a can. The place was crowded and had a long line. I didn’t mind waiting. When it was my turn, I emptied my can into the money bin. I got to shake Doc’s hand and Miss Kitty thanked me personally, or at least it seemed that way. I was star struck.

One July 4th at the bandstand in the next town over, Big Brother Bob Emery was there. He was a local television personality who had a show for kids. I remember the theme song was “The Grass is Always Greener in the Other Fella’s Yard.” He accompanied himself on the ukulele and sometimes a banjo. He called us small fry. On the wall behind him was a picture of then President Eisenhower. Hail to the Chief would play, and we would raise our glasses of milk in tribute then drink to the president. Anyway, I was right behind him on the bandstand. I remember he wore a checked suit jacket. It was so crowded none of us, even Big Brother Bob Emery, could move. What I remember the most is he had a bug on his neck. I watched the bug move across his neck and wondered why he didn’t whack it away. I was so intent on the bug I missed whatever he had to say.

In Ghana, I met Prime Minister Kofi Busia. He was running in the first election after the military coup. Campaigning was happening while I was in training. When I was in Bawku for my Iive-in with a Ghanaian family, there was a huge rally for Busia. My Ghanaian father was a mucky muck in the Progress Party, Busia’s party, and insisted we, a Peace Corps friend, and I sit on the bandstand. Wrong move! We got a bit of a reprimand for appearing to support Busia by sitting on the grandstand, right in front, as we were not supposed to have anything to do with politics, local or otherwise. Well, he won. Later, after his inauguration, he visited my town, Bolgatanga, for a luncheon at the governor’s house. I didn’t get an invitation, but my principal insisted I accompany her. I did. They made room. That was when I met Prime Minister Busia. He would be overthrown by the army 27 months later.

That’s it, the entire total of well-known people I have met.

“Music replays the past memories, awaken our forgotten worlds and make our minds travel.”

December 30, 2017

The deep freeze continues. It is 16˚ and snowy weather is predicted. The sky is grayish white, and the air is still. I have to go out later for the one thing I didn’t know I needed the other day when I shopped, toilet paper, an item as essential as food and water.

My car needed only the oil change. Everything else checked out just fine though I was told to keep an eye on my tires.

In Ghana this time of year I loved the weather. Today in Bolgatanga it was 88˚ but tonight it will be only 68˚, and that’s the way it will continue for the rest of the week, even getting as low as 63˚ at night. That’s one thing I didn’t expect in Ghana, cold weather. I had no clothes to keep me warm. My students every morning were dressed in sweaters on sweaters and layers after layers. I had bare arms and sock-less feet, but I had steaming coffee in a huge mug to get me started, and the mornings warmed quickly.

I watched a movie today which partly took place in Jordan. One scene was of the city of Amman in the early morning light of dawn, and the only sound is the call to prayer. I stayed right near a mosque during my Peace Corps live-in, a three week stay with a family. I was in a town called Bawku which is heavily Moslem. A small mosque was on the street below my room. The pre-dawn call to prayer was live, not recorded. I heard it every morning and still remember so well the beauty of that song. The single voice was clear and powerful. It became familiar. I’d lie there listening then at the end of the song I’d fall back to sleep.

In Marrakesh I also heard the songs to prayers every day coming from a mosque not that far from my riad and also from the Koutoubia Mosque, the largest one in the city which towers over everything. Its minaret is sort of a landmark for the city. I was usually out walking around when I’d hear the afternoon calls. The voice was recorded, but it sounded over everything else and was rhythmic and lovely.

I know smells become familiar and trigger memories. The aroma of burning wood   always brings me back to Ghana, especially the mornings, when breakfast was being cooked over the fire. When I was in Morocco and heard the songs to prayer, I was reminded of Ghana, and that small mosque and the beauty of the single voice singing. It seems sounds too carry memories.

I’m Ghana get you in a taxi, honey

September 18, 2011

I have uploaded all the photos of my trip. My first thought had been to do it in pieces like Ghana I, Ghana II and up to whatever, but I decided just to add to the first batch and keep going. It took a good part of the day! Enjoy!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/misskath/sets/72157627565605469/

My Dear Hedley, Watch out!

“I have found that if you love life, life will love you back.”

September 13, 2011

The morning comes early when your body is still on a different time. Today it was 5 o’clock when Gracie, Fern and I rolled out of bed. I brewed some coffee and read yesterday’s mail. As you can tell, the daily routine is quickly back into my life. When the papers came, I read them and did all my puzzles. Yup, just a regular day here in South Dennis.

I went to take a shower on my first night in Bolga after all that traveling. There was no hot water so one of the women brought me a bucketful. I had a bucket bath for the first time in 40 years. In the morning I went to have breakfast. It came with the hotel rate. I ordered fried eggs, toast and coffee. The fried eggs were not at all tasty and the coffee came in single cup pouches: instant Nescafe, exactly what I used to drink as there is still no brewed coffee. The milk in the pitcher was evaporated. It could have been my breakfast forty years ago.

On that first full day in Bolgatanga, Thomas and I went to Bawku. During training in July 1969 we spent three weeks there living with a Ghanaian family who spoke the language we were learning. I stayed in the house of Imora Sanda, a wealthy, respected man. His house was the only one with lights as he had a generator for his house and the movie theater. I use movie theater loosely as you stepped through a door to the outside and sat on benches; no popcorn anywhere. Mostly they showed spaghetti westerns with the strange-sounding dialogue and odd music. One time they showed the ending of the film in the middle and the middle reel at the end. Well, back to now: the road to Bawku was horrible. It was mostly hard-packed dirt and pot holes big enough to eat a car whole. Along the way were small villages and cows, lots of cows, as the north is where they raise almost all of the cows in the country. Bawku was small when I was there; it is now sprawling and like most larger towns and villages it is filled with people walking, sitting, talking and riding bicycles and motorcycles. There are far fewer cars in the north than the south as it is a poorer part of the country with no cash crop so fewer expensive cars. We rode around a bit as I tried to find my bearings. We stopped and asked a group of young men if they knew the home of Imoru Sanda. One of them said yes, and he would get the son of Imoru Sanda to come.

When he came, I introduced myself: sun na Ladi. My name is Ladi in Hausa: a girl born on Sunday. I then explained who I was, and he took me right to his father’s house. I knew it immediately, and I knew the movie theater two houses down the dirt road. We walked inside the house and started to walk upstairs. I said my room is the second on the left. There it was exactly as I remembered it in my mind’s eye. There is a door to a porch at the other end of the room, and I said below the porch is a tree on the left, a dirt road and a small mosque on the right. It was exactly the same, and I swear the same men were sitting under that tree as they had in my day. Imora, named after his father, said his mother is still alive, and we walked to the family’s house. In 1969 it was a compound, and I used to walk between compounds to get there. Always were small children around the house and something cooking on the fire, usually my dinner. When I got to the house, Imora called his mother. I told her my name, and she repeated it then gave me a giant hug and told me how I used to visit her and the other wives, two of whom have died and the other, the youngest, in here in the US. We spoke a while then I went back to the open part of the house where dinner was cooking and kids were milling. One cried-I always used to make the toddlers cry simply by the color of my skin. I took a picture of the whole family then they took one with me. I had found my Ghanaian family after 42 years away. Imora Sanda had died a very old man in 1990. I always thought he was old when I knew him. They gave me a picture of my Ghanaian father to take home with me.

That night, back in Bolga, I sat and finished dinner. No longer do the Ghanaians use talking drums to communicate. They use cell phones and four students, learning I was in town, arrived that night to visit, the one I had met the night before and three more including Lillian who is married to the Bolga-naba, the chief and is his third of four wives, Francisca and Florence. We laughed and remembered for a long time. We had all kept our memories close and they were easy to find.

“The traveler sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see.”

July 7, 2011

The day is already hot; yesterday was hot. I am inside right now with the air conditioner on and am quite comfortable, but, because the back door has to be shut, Gracie is driving me crazy. She rings her doggie bells to go out and a couple of minutes later flaps the dog door to come back inside. I think it’s a test. Either that or she’s out to drive me crazy. After I finish here, I’ll join her on the deck while there is still a breeze.

This morning I got my yellow fever shot for Ghana and a lecture from the doctor. He told me to wear cotton socks and sneakers: New Balance was his suggestion, and he thought two pairs of socks a day would be best, and I should travel with large zip-lock bags so I can store my muddy sneakers. Never wear sandals is what he said. Your feet could get horribly sunburned, and there is danger of rocks getting between your feet and the bottom of your sandals which could cause cuts which would lead to infections. He didn’t mention possible amputation from wide-spread infection, but I thought that’s where he was heading. Avoiding packs of dogs was another suggestion. I never once saw a pack of dogs; herds of goats is as close as I got. He said he assumed I was going economy so he was giving me a series of exercises to avoid blood clots. I took the paper and didn’t correct him. I figured with my t-shirt having a hole or two and my wearing rubber flip flops the assumption made sense. He gave me a pamphlet warning me about armed robbery, war in the north and the poor quality of hotels in Ghana. I just thanked him and left. I didn’t tell him I won’t be bringing socks or sneakers, and up north is exactly where I want to go, including Bawku which had had gunfire a year ago between robbers and police.

If I listen to the doctor, I can imagine what my new packing list will look like: sunscreen for my feet, pairs and pairs of old socks (old because the doctor suggested I could just throw them away after wearing them), sneakers, a bullet proof vest and one of those wrist locks connecting me and my suitcase. I just hope no one thanks of chopping off my wrist. It could get infected.

“The traveler sees what he sees, the tourist sees what he has come to see.”

July 7, 2011

The day is already hot; yesterday was hot. I am inside right now with the air conditioner on and am quite comfortable, but, because the back door has to be shut, Gracie is driving me crazy. She rings her doggie bells to go out and a couple of minutes later flaps the dog door to come back inside. I think it’s a test. Either that or she’s out to drive me crazy. After I finish here, I’ll join her on the deck while there is still a breeze.

This morning I got my yellow fever shot for Ghana and a lecture from the doctor. He told me to wear cotton socks and sneakers: New Balance was his suggestion, and he thought two pairs of socks a day would be best, and I should travel with large zip-lock bags so I can store my muddy sneakers. Never wear sandals is what he said. Your feet could get horribly sunburned, and there is danger of rocks getting between your feet and the bottom of your sandals which could cause cuts which would lead to infections. He didn’t mention possible amputation from wide-spread infection, but I thought that’s where he was heading. Avoiding packs of dogs was another suggestion. I never once saw a pack of dogs; herds of goats is as close as I got. He said he assumed I was going economy so he was giving me a series of exercises to avoid blood clots. I took the paper and didn’t correct him. I figured with my t-shirt having a hole or two and my wearing rubber flip flops the assumption made sense. He gave me a pamphlet warning me about armed robbery, war in the north and the poor quality of hotels in Ghana. I just thanked him and left. I didn’t tell him I won’t be bringing socks or sneakers, and up north is exactly where I want to go, including Bawku which had had gunfire a year ago between robbers and police.

If I listen to the doctor, I can imagine what my new packing list will look like: sunscreen for my feet, pairs and pairs of old socks (old because the doctor suggested I could just throw them away after wearing them), sneakers, a bullet proof vest and one of those wrist locks connecting me and my suitcase. I just hope no one thanks of chopping off my wrist. It could get infected.