Posted tagged ‘Ghana’

“Visits always give pleasure – if not the arrival, the departure.”

June 30, 2011

The sky is a vibrant blue and the sun is warm. A slight breeze makes the day delightful. This morning my house is quiet. The routine of every day has returned because my company left last night. I miss them. Having company interrupts routine in the best possible way. We laugh, chat and enjoy being together. The house is filled with sounds different than every day when only the animals and I move about, and I’m the only voice. Gracie is sleeping on the couch which she does every morning except she didn’t for the last couple. She was intent on missing nothing and was our constant companion. The deck is empty and quiet. My sister should be out there reading her book and following the sun as it moves about the house. I need to get used to the quiet again.

I never lived alone until I was in Ghana. The house, where I grew up, was small, and there were six of us always bumping into each other. When we moved to the cape, I had my own room, but the house was never quiet. The kitchen, close to my bedroom, was the hubbub of activity. I didn’t mind. It had been the same all of my life. College was no different. I could fall asleep surrounded by people and noise.

I lived alone in Ghana, on one side of a duplex. It was the first time in my life I wasn’t surrounded by family or friends. I was depressed, lonely and homesick and had no one to talk to about it. I couldn’t tell my fellow staff members. It would sound a bit insulting. I did write to friends about it, and that was cathartic, but it was only a stop gap. The loneliness returned. I decided I would leave at the end of term one if nothing changed, but I was lucky. Everything changed.

I began to enjoy being alone, having time to myself. Ghana and my four rooms became home. At night, I’d sit outside under the most magnificent starlit sky with my mouth opened in awe then I’d go inside, read and listen to music. During the day I’d teach and in-between classes I’d go home and be by myself with my book and a cup of coffee until the next class. I enjoyed being alone and found company disruptive. I was at the polar opposite of where I had begun.

It took a while to find the middle, but I did. Company was welcomed. Being alone was never lonely. That’s still the way it is. I miss my recent company and their voices and their movements about the house, but I’m content to be alone.

“Simplicity is making the journey of this life with just baggage enough.”

June 27, 2011

The day is warm and sunny. Even this early Gracie is out lying on the deck, and Fern has staked her claim to the mat by the front door where the morning sun streams into the house. She is stretched out so all of her can feel the warmth. I must have instinctively known there was sun as I was up early, have read the papers, put on a wash and cleaned the table and chairs on the deck in anticipation of my company sitting outside to enjoy the day. My guess is they should arrive around noon.

We are most assuredly spoiled. When I was in Ghana, I made do with very little. Even though it was often over 100°, I didn’t even own a fan. I just sweated a lot. Going to bed still wet from my nightly shower was as close to air conditioning as I got. Coke was a treat as was a bar of Cadbury chocolate. Traveling even a few miles took forever in over-crowded mammy lorries or buses. I prayed for a window seat. The buses often smelled of goats or chickens, both of which were sometimes under the seats. Goats, however, were usually tied to the top with the luggage. It took close to four hours to go a hundred miles. From Accra, on the coast, to Bolga took 16 hours. It still does. Irons used charcoal for heat and bucket baths were common. I became an expert at bucket baths. I could wash my hair and all the rest of me then use the left over water to flush the toilet. I also became an expert at using public toilets with holes in the floor, and that dubious talent came into use more recently when I went to Morocco. When I was in college, we had pit stops, but they were more the result of a night of revelry than usual practice.

Ghanaians wasted nothing, and that was one of the most important lessons I learned. Bottles and cans were reused over and over. Sandals had retread tires for soles. Food from the market was wrapped in newspapers. My rice always came in a newspaper cone.

When I left Ghana, I vowed to remember I didn’t need much. A hand can opener works just as well and a broom can sweep a room clean. It has been forty years since that vow, and I have accumulated much, and those Ghanaian lessons have faded over the years. Now, though, for some odd reason, I find myself doing chores far more simply. I sweep the kitchen clean most mornings. My electric can opener died so I use the hand opener on those few cans which still require one. I use few dishes so I hand wash them every night. It gives me a small sense of satisfaction.

My life is getting simpler. I think it has to do with getting older. I need much less than I used to, but, no matter what, I can’t give up the air conditioner.

 

“Grin like a dog and wander aimlessly.”

June 10, 2011

The thunder and lightning were tremendous last night. It was an amazing storm. My room lit up several times from the lightning, and the house was shaken by the thunder overhead. I loved every minute of it. Yesterday was ugly and hot. Today is cool and dry, a gift from the storm. The sunlight seems muted. It lacks the glare the heat brings. The next few days will be in the 70’s and the nights in the 50’s. I think that is perfect weather.

My passport came back yesterday with its Ghanaian visa. I’ve looked at that visa at least three times. The handwriting is typically Ghanaian: beautifully written with a flourish. I am now official!

When I was a kid, I dreamed of faraway places. My geography book was a wish book filled with pictures of where I dreamed I could be. I saw myself on Corcovado Mountain in Rio standing below the giant statue of Christ the Redeemer. I went up the Amazon, I wandered coffee plantations, and I saw the sphinx in Egypt, all in my imagination. No one I knew traveled just for the sake of traveling. Marty Barrett went to England to visit his grandmother, but that was the only place he went. Riding on an airplane was a part of my dream.

I once sneaked to Logan Airport with my uncle from my grandmother’s house. It was quite a long walk, miles, but I didn’t care. I stood on the observation deck of one of the old wooden Logan hangers and watched the planes coming and going. From displays I took brochures describing airlines and hotels. I wandered the airport watching people with their suitcases getting in lines to board planes. I was both wistful and jealous.

When I got back to my grandmother’s, my parents were livid, but I thought that a small price to pay for a great adventure. A few days later, I started reading the brochures, cut out pictures and began an album of my trip. I described the plane ride and flying in the clouds. Pictures of my hotel rooms had arrows pointing to my bed. All the wonderful sights we saw in the different cities were pasted on the pages and described by me in a first person account.

I filled the whole album with wishes and a dreams.

“And since all this loveliness can not be Heaven, I know in my heart it is June.”

June 7, 2011

Okay, enough is enough. I backed into a car yesterday, moved to get away from it and hit something else. The collision place says $700 to fix both areas. Why not, I say. I’m getting used to living under a dark cloud. I’m now extra careful going up and downstairs, throw salt over my shoulder and avoid ladders.

I refuse to get my hopes too high, but today has started a bit better. Here’s the good news: it’s not the water heater but a corroded copper pipe which is now being replaced. All my flowers got planted, the backyard was weed-whacked and the front garden was weeded. The irrigation system started today so I don’t have to hand water the flowers any more. Tonight I will take my first outside shower of the season and will bring my phone with me as I have been locked inside the shower before when the latch stuck. I will take no chances!

It’s a deck day, beautiful and warm so I’ll be heading out when I finish here. Showers are predicted for tonight, and that’s a good thing as we haven’t had rain for a while. I hope for a bit of thunder and lighting.

My trip is well over two months away, and I’m already getting excited. My passport has been sent to the embassy for its visa, my yellow fever shot is scheduled, I ordered new sandals, have bought some new clothes, a new suitcase and plenty of travel toilet paper. My iPad is set for recharging on Ghanaian voltage, and I’ve started downloading some books. While I’m there, I’ll have a dress or two made and buy plenty of cloth for other projects. I figure I don’t need a whole slew of clothes as I can have them washed while I’m there. We even had our washing done during training when we were living on a small per diem as it was pretty cheap. I have a place to stay, and all I need is to find a car and driver. The one I found quoted a far too expensive rate so I have to keep looking. I’m hoping at the place where I’m staying they might have a connection or two.

I am so excited about summer, about deck movies and the theater and nights outside with friends. It will hit the 70’s later this week. A day that hot sounds like the start of summer to me.

“Have you watched the fairies when the rain is done, Spreading out their little wings to dry them in the sun?”

May 24, 2011

Evolutionary changes are supposed to happen over eons, not in a few weeks, so why have my feet begun to web together? Soon enough I’ll look like Kevin Cosner in Waterworld. The day is 61° and it is damp from the pouring rain of last night, but I’ve decided to look on it all with great optimism. Everything got planted yesterday so the rain will help my new herbs and flowers feel more at home. I’m sure they’re stretching their roots right now. My grass will stay, and here is that word again, lush. But when the sun does return, I’ll celebrate and welcome it, and I’m already planning a summer solstice gala. Druid dress is optional.

I loved the rainy season in Ghana. All the grass turned a spectacular green, the fields were filled with millet getting taller and taller, baobab trees had leaves, the market was bursting with fresh produce and everywhere looked sparkling and new. It was quite a contrast from the dry season when it didn’t rain from September until late April or early May, and every day was sunny. The sky, except during the harmattan, was blue. We used to joke and say today looked like rain. Everything turned brown: all the grasses and the fields surrounding the school. The farmers, in the field behind us, worked on their compounds redoing walls and roofs. They’d sing and dance at night. We could hear the drums. We longed for rain, but it came with a price. As we’d get closer to the rainy season, the days got hotter and more humid. The nights got uncomfortable for sleeping so I’d move my mattress outside and sleep in the backyard. We all waited for that first storm which was always spectacular. But after those first magnificent storms, the rain settled into a pattern, and it would rain every day for parts of the day. The rainy season was always my favorite time of year so maybe, just maybe, I should remember that more often, especially now.

“Laughter is brightest, in the place where the food is.”

May 20, 2011

Yesterday’s sun didn’t last long. It disappeared behind clouds, and later we had rain. Today, yet again, rain is predicted. The morning sun and the blue sky have dropped in to say a quick hello before their disappearance this afternoon. Gracie is lying on the lounge on the deck; Fern is curled in a ball in the sun by the front door, and I have the window open.

I’m going to the garden store today to buy soil and herbs for my window boxes. Last year every time I went on the deck I could smell the sweetness of the basil and the rosemary. I know I’ll fill my trunk as I have little self-control when I buy herbs and flowers. My friend, the gardener, gave me a list of new flowers to add to my front garden.

Planting always seems so hopeful to me. It acknowledges the changing season and the arrival of spring. I hunt recipes where I can just snip and add fresh herbs from my garden to summer dinners on the deck. The basil goes into sandwiches with tomatoes and cheese. The oregano is added to feta and olive oil, and the three of them sit and get to know each other for a couple of weeks then a miraculous spread for fresh bread is born. I can see the candles in the trees brightening the night as we sit and enjoy the bounty of my yet to be planted garden. The time is coming: I just know it.

Before I leave for Ghana, I’m going to cook an African dinner for my friends as a sort of farewell party. I know kelewele will be on the menu as it is my favorite Ghanaian dish, and it will be the first one I eat after my arrival. I’ll also make groundnut stew and find a substitute for fufu so my friends can eat with their hands the Ghanaian way. That’s about as far as I’ve gotten, but then again, I have a few months to prepare.

Well, I’m done. I can hear the garden store calling my name!

“Outside of a dog, a book is man’s best friend. Inside of a dog it’s too dark to read.”

May 17, 2011

This morning I could smell the ocean. I didn’t want to come inside, but I reluctantly pulled myself away. It rained last night as it will every day this week. Today is still cloudy but a bit lighter than it’s been, and the street is beginning to dry. Gracie found the baby possum last night. I heard her making a weird sounding bark and went outside. I rescued the possum, but I don’t know how much life it had left. It moved when I grabbed it by its tail and put out it outside the yard. Gracie had only played with it, but her paws were no match for the baby possum.

I made an appointment to get my yellow fever shot for Ghana. Though the trip is still months away, every completed detail makes me more and more excited. Forty or so former volunteers will be in-country for the 50th celebration. I noticed one who served before I did. In different postings we have been referred to as the ancients and the old girls and old boys of Ghana. A current volunteer from the Upper West has offered me her expertise. She is posted in Wa where I’d visited a few times. Bolga is now in the Upper East. Long ago the whole area was just the Upper Region.

My group was the first in Peace Corps history to train completely in-country, and I sent the story to Ghana as the 50th committee was looking for historical perspectives. The story was accepted and is now posted on the Peace Corps Ghana site. I got a chuckle that it is described as part of Stories Through the Ages. Just click on an RPCV Story  1969-1971. Here is the link: http://ghana.peacecorps.gov/ThroughAges.php

Today I will be out and about doing a few errands. I think cloudy or rainy days lend themselves to errands. I have a list. Gracie, of course, will be my navigator. When I get home, I’ll just laze and read. I can’t think of a better way to spend a damp and rainy afternoon.

“There is nothing like staying at home for real comfort.”

April 26, 2011

Today I am behind my time as I had an early meeting in Falmouth. It was about the Peace Corps and the Cape Cod group celebrating the fiftieth here. The festivities will be while I’m in Ghana, but I’m glad to know there will be a celebration.

I’ll let you guess the weather today. If you said cloudy-you win. It isn’t raining but it is a possibility later today and tomorrow. It is 60°, warm, even without the sun. This has been such a wet month here, even more than usual. My flowers love it. I found two tulips in the front garden in the bud stage. The spawn of Satan missed them last fall. I can’t wait until they bloom. I consider them precious survivors from the al fresco dining of those squirrels.

I really haven’t much to say today. I did wish I’d brought my camera with me this morning as I saw several places worth the stop for a picture. I seldom get over to that side of the cape even though it really isn’t all that far away. I have developed a bit of a isolationist syndrome. Even Hyannis sometimes seems too far off for the trip. Everything I need is right at hand or just a short drive away. I find it easier to travel far, far away by plane than drive to Hyannis. With summer coming, I’ll even be more reluctant to go anywhere.

Well, I have a couple of books from the library I want to start and I’m thinking an iced coffee might taste just perfect right now so I’m done!

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“Do not wait for extraordinary circumstances to do good action; try to use ordinary situations.”

April 14, 2011

4″ of rain fell yesterday. It started raining the night before then poured all of yesterday. We even had thunder to give the rain a bit of spice. Today it’s 50°, and the sun is lurking behind light gray clouds. Gracie is busy watching the men clean the yard across the street. Their blowers were the first things I heard this morning. Today is one of Gracie’s favorite days: dump day. We’ll go as soon as I finish loading the car with my cardboard, bottles, magazines and newspapers. Did I mention the trash? She would have loved the old dump with piles of refuse and seagulls everywhere. The dump now has bins for all the recycling and bigger bins for the trash, and there are no seagulls.

When we lived in South Yarmouth, my father used to love to go to the dump. Every Sunday morning, he’d ask if anyone wanted to go with him. Guests were in big trouble as they were usually dragged along as if the dump was a tourist destination. I used to be able to see the old dump from the highway. The seagulls were always circling hoping to find a morsel. That dump too has been replaced, and from the highway, all I can see are green hills where the old dump used to be.

I sometimes drive by our old house in South Yarmouth. The only changes in the forty plus years since I lived there are an addition added to the kitchen side and a fence in the back. My bedroom was on the first floor as was my brother’s. I’m often tempted to stop and peek in the windows, but I can still see every room in my mind’s eye. It’s the same with the house we left to move to the cape. I remember every piece of furniture in every room. In Ghana, my house was small, four rooms, and I know every one of them as if I still lived there. My bedroom had a wall of slat windows, and I actually made curtains. They were of brown Ghanaian cloth with a design. I cut then hemmed then used string to hold them across the windows. In the living room, the light bulb hung from a long wire. I made a shade from a Bolga basket, the same ones you can now buy from catalogs. I cut a hole in the top and used pieces of a wire hanger to hold the bulb. The shade left a small circle of light on the floor below it. During the rainy season, the only time we had bugs, the circle under the lampshade was always filled with dead ones from the night before.

Well, enough with the memories. I need to get to the dump.

“Use what talents you possess; the woods would be very silent if no birds sang there except those that sang best.”

April 12, 2011

The weather is the same as yesterday with clouds, but the sun has been playing some peek-a-boo and might just surprise us. It’s 56°. I never did go anywhere yesterday despite my good intentions; I just played at being a sloth, but this morning I have already been to a meeting and gone to have my blood drawn. Three more errands are on the list, and I’ll leave as soon as I finish here. I never can pass up these bursts of energy.

The birds are back. I am forgiven for leaving the feeders empty for so long. There are my usual visitors: titmice, chickadees, goldfinches and nuthatches. Did I mention the red spawn of Satan? It gets into my smaller feeder and settles in for a lavish feast. I tiptoe over and scare it to the ground. I did leave more peanuts for them yesterday and watched as the red spawn dined al fresco. I filled the suet feeder but the woodpeckers haven’t been there yet. They seem to prefer the wood on the side of my house.

In Marrakesh, cranes nest along ancient walls. I sat one afternoon having coffee and watched them coming and going. It was fascinating. Strangely I don’t remember seeing many Ghanaian birds except Guinea fowl and vultures. The vultures made me think of all those movies where they circle the dead bodies and wait for dinner. I remember sitting at the compound of my Ghanaian father’s wives and seeing vultures walking around. I was mesmerized, but after a while, they just became part of the landscape.

Every morning, when I go get the papers, I can hear the birds greeting the day. It is such a welcome sound that I always stand and listen for a bit. They make me believe that soon enough the days will get warmer, and I’ll sit on the deck while the birds swoop in and out over my head to get to the feeders. They make me feel optimistic. If I could whistle a happy tune, I probably would. Come to think of it, I may just anyway.