Posted tagged ‘charcoal fires’

“Nothing but breathing the air of Africa, and actually walking through it, can communicate the indescribable sensations.”

September 4, 2022

Today is hotter than it has been. It is already 81° and will get a bit higher, but the humidity is low making it a fairly pleasant day. The breeze is every now and then, but it is a strong breeze. I have nowhere I need to go today. I’m not even going to get dressed. I have a few chores in the house to do, and usually those lead to other chores so it could be a busy day. I hate busy days.

Oh! No! Last night I heard a chewing sound from the hall. Nala was beside me on the couch so for once she was innocent. It was Henry. He was tearing a box into small pieces. He was pulling a Nala. I’ll go crazy if he starts stealing things and sneaking them outside.

When I was a kid, my mother did everything around the house. She cleaned, did the laundry, made the beds and cooked all the meals. On cold school mornings she often made oatmeal or eggs. I loved her soft-boiled eggs. I was only a fan of oatmeal if it had milk and sugar on the top, lots of sugar. The oatmeal back then wasn’t quick-cooking oatmeal. I remember sometimes it boiled, and it looked a bit like lava bubbling in a pool. I had cocoa. My brother had tea. My mother used to put the bags in a tea pot and put the tea pot on the table. I always thought it looked fine, even elegant, having a tea pot on the table. My cocoa unceremoniously came in a cup.

When I was in Africa I had two eggs, toast and coffee for breakfast every day. That is the standard because wherever you stay still serves you the same breakfast. The eggs were fried in ground-nut oil, peanut oil. They had the most amazing taste. The toast was made from sugar bread sold everywhere by small girls carrying trays on their heads. It was delicious. You couldn’t buy butter, only margarine in a can. After a while, though, my taste buds never noticed the difference. It was the same with the milk. It was evaporated from a can.

I love mornings in Ghana. The roosters crow and greet the new day. You can smell charcoal fires as people cook their breakfasts. The air smells sweet. Women are sweeping using small hand brooms made from stocks of grass or branches. You can hear the back and forth swishing. They leave broom lines in the dirt.

Every time I visit Ghana, I love just sitting outside, drinking my coffee and taking in the mornings. They are filled with the sights, sounds and aromas of Ghana which are always a part of me, highlights in my memory drawers. They are a delight.

“When I mentioned my early morning waking to the old witch down the street, she explained that this is the time the “ceiling is the thinnest,” the moment that the earth’s creatures have the greatest access to the heavens… It is a magical time, or so she said.”

April 21, 2015

Today is cloudy, but the day is so light the sun must be hidden behind the grey. Earlier, morning fog covered all the bushes and the lower branches of the trees. It’s warm, far warmer than I expected. Despite the clouds, I think it’s a nice day. The street cleaner rumbled by a couple of times sweeping the winter storm sand to the sides of the street. It is not a quiet truck.

My morning routine seldom differs. I wake up whenever, feed the cats, let the dog out, put the coffee on, go out and get the papers and yesterday’s mail, give Gracie her morning treats then grab a cup of coffee and settle in with the papers. I like my mornings.

No matter where I am, the mornings are different from the rest of the day. If I’m on a trip, I love to get up really early and wander the streets. I get to watch the day unfold. People sweep. Shopkeepers wear white aprons and have long-handled brooms. Africans wear colorful cloths and have hard grass brooms with no handles. They have to bend to use them. In cities, trucks stop in streets to unload goods for stores and restaurants. In one hotel my room’s window faced a side street where the trucks parked. They were my wake-up call every morning. In Santa Fe I sat on a bench and watched the Indians set up their wares while I munched on pastry and drank coffee. It was so early the square was empty of other people. At Gettysburg, I was awake before the park opened so I waited and was the first that morning to wander the battlefield. It was covered in ground fog. It was quiet as befitting a memorial.

Early mornings here on the Cape are quiet in the summer. The tourists are late risers. I sometimes go out to breakfast but most times I get coffee and take a ride. I watch quahoggers raking the river bottom while seagulls swoop and fly in circles over their heads hoping for a handout. Seagulls are always loud.

I know I’ve told you before, but I love African mornings most of all. They are filled with the smells of charcoal fires and the sounds of women pounding their mortar with pestles to make fufu. The sound is rhythmic. Everyone is up early in Ghana, even I was. I hated to miss any part of the morning.

“Each day has a color, a smell.”

October 5, 2010

It is a put a mirror under her nose to make sure she’s breathing sort of morning. I went to bed really late, or early if you’re a stickler for exactitude, as I just wasn’t tired. I watched bad movies, read a bit and shopped through some catalogs. It was nearly ten when I woke up. Even the animals slept in with me. The day is rainy and chilly. I think I chose a good morning to stay in bed. I hate wasting sun.

Smells are amazing. They let us travel through time and space. One of my favorites is the aroma of freshly baked bread. When I was a kid, two bakeries in the square made their own bread, and I’d sometimes buy a roll still hot from the oven. It didn’t need butter. It was sweet enough on its own.

Fall is still the smell of burning leaves for me. I always thought of smoke signals when I saw piles of burning leaves with their gray smoke snaking into the air. In my memory, the day was always chilly and standing near the fire was warming. My clothes smelled like the burning leaves, and I hated to put them in the wash. Christmas smells like a fir tree. I remember walking downstairs every morning and smelling the tree in the living room. Christmas couldn’t come soon enough. On Thanksgiving, the house was filled with the smell of the turkey roasting in the oven. The kitchen windows were covered in steam, and I couldn’t see outside. I’d watch my mother baste the turkey, and we’d share a small piece of the crusted stuffing she’d pull off the end.

The smell of charcoal lighter fluid brings back my father. He was a firm believer in soaking the briquettes, and as soon as a match hit them, the flame would rise high into the sky. The whoosh of the fire always sent him reeling backwards. He set his pant legs on fire many times.

Burning wood is Ghana. Everyone used wood charcoal. Some villages were charcoal villages, and long logs were kept smoldering to make the charcoal. Every morning I smelled sweet burning wood as my breakfast was cooked on a small round charcoal burner. First it was the water for coffee, then the eggs while the toast leaned on the burner and was turned so both sides would brown. My dinner was cooked the same way.

At night, the sides of the street were filled with women selling food. They fried plantains in white enamel pots over wood fires or roasted skewers of Guinea fowl and chicken on screens over the fires. The town was mostly dark so the small fires looked like bright, low flickering street lights. The whole town smelled like wood burning, like a cozy fire in winter.