“Am hot not because i’m in problem…Ghana sunlight dense.”

Posted March 3, 2023 by katry
Categories: Musings

This week I did errands. Today it was four. I am happy to be home at last. The dogs greeted me with exuberance. Henry jumped into the air. Nala wiggled her butt and tried to jump on me. It is a wonderful thing to be welcomed home.

The capital of Ghana is Accra. It is quite a distance from where I lived. The ride down country included a ferry ride from Yeji which is on the shore of the Volta Lake. We used to buy water in bottles while we waited for the ferry. We’d hold the bottles up to the sun and buy the ones with the fewest floaties which is what we call the debris floating in the bottle. Sometimes we’d buy the fish which was cooked over the fire, barbecued I guess. I don’t know what kind of fish they were. Most times we never asked what we were eating on the road.

Accra was Nirvana. There were movie theaters, restaurants and shops. The movie theaters were all outside. If it rained, we just moved our chairs under the overhangs. The movies were old, but we didn’t care. Our favorite restaurant was Talal’s near Peace Corps. It was Lebanese. I first ate tabouleh and hummus there.

We stayed in Adabraca at the Peace Corps hostel, 50 pesewas a night (about 50¢) which included breakfast. It was always a reunion of sorts there. I’d see friends with whom I’d trained but hadn’t seen sometimes since swearing in. We went out to eat together and roamed around the city. I did some shopping for stuff to bring home. The supermarket had an escalator. Ghanaians used to go for the ride.

I remember walking at night in the city. It was quiet back then. Sometimes I’d see some men sitting on wooden chairs on the sidewalks. I could hear them quietly talking in Twi as I walked by.

I had a friend visit me in Ghana. We stayed in Accra a couple of days. We took a taxi to the hostel. I gave the driver 20 pesewas, the going rate for anywhere in the city. He said 30 pesewas. I said he was cheating me. We went back and forth a couple of times. My friend waned to know why. I told him the driver wanted 10 pesewas too many. My friend said just pay him, but I told him it was a matter of principal. I told the driver take 20 or nothing. He took the 20 and said, ” I hate you Peace Corps. You always know the right price.” My friend got it.

The ride up country took forever. We had to wait hours at Yeji for a VIP. Finally we took off, but when we got to the terminal in Tamale, 100 miles south of Bolga, they told us no busses until the next day. The Ghanaians were not happy. They complained vociferously. The company gave us a bus to Bolga. It was really late when we got there. The driver told us to come back in the morning for our bags. I didn’t want to leave my bag. I pretended to climb the ladder to the bus roof. The driver stopped me and said he’d get my luggage. Bolga had one taxi at night. We rode it to the school. The driver told me it was 60 pesewas. I told him no. It was 40. He said I had been out of town when the price went up. I laughed. He took the 40.

I’m Late, I’m Late

Posted March 3, 2023 by katry
Categories: Just Because

I have appointments today so I don’t think I’ll get to a posting until late afternoon. Please return later. I have more stories to tell about Ghana and Peace Corps.

Music from Ghana.

Posted March 2, 2023 by katry
Categories: Video

Under African Skies: Paul Simon

Posted March 2, 2023 by katry
Categories: Video

African Sunrise: John Denver

Posted March 2, 2023 by katry
Categories: Video

Pretty Africa: Desmond Dekker & The Aces

Posted March 2, 2023 by katry
Categories: Video

Posted March 2, 2023 by katry
Categories: photo

Some of my students. This was taken in 1970 toward the end of my first year teaching in Bolga. The rainy season has started as I can see green in the fields.

“I hope you have an experience that alters the course of your life because, after Africa, nothing has ever been the same.”

Posted March 2, 2023 by katry
Categories: Musings

Tags: , ,

My kitchen floor stayed clean for three days. Today it has been raining so the floor has become a roadmap of dog paw prints. According to the forecast, it will rain again tomorrow so I’ll have to live with paw prints.

It being Peace Corps week, I thought I’d take you through a regular day with me in Bolgatanga, Ghana. I taught English as a second language at Women’s Teacher Training College. I taught second years, 35 students in each of my two classes. They were ages 16 to 32. They sat in the classroom two to a table.

Now to my day!!

I always woke up early to the sounds of students sweeping the dirt in the front of my house. They did chores throughout the school compound before classes. I’d sit outside my house having my first cup of coffee watching the morning unfold. After the sweeping, I could hear water from the taps falling into metal buckets. It was bucket bath time for my students when the chores were finished. Meanwhile, I was finishing my coffee then having my breakfast, the same breakfast every morning: two eggs over and two pieces of toast all cooked on a small wood charcoal burner.

My house was by the back gate across from the school garden. The classrooms were a short walk away. My lessons were divided into reading comprehension, vocabulary, speech and writing. I had to present my plan book every Friday to the principal.

When I had a break in teaching, I’d go home for another cup of coffee. I’d sit on the steps and watch the little ones walk to the elementary school outside the front gate. They would stop, salute and tell me, “Good morning, sir.” They were just learning English starting with greetings.

After I was finished teaching, I had lunch, the same lunch every day: fresh fruit including bananas, mango, pawpaw, pineapple and oranges.

After lunch I’d read or plan lessons, and sometimes I’d walk into town to the market, especially on market day, every third day. I had favorite market sellers. The egg man would hold the eggs up to the light so I could see the egg level and know it was a good egg. I never saw it. I just trusted my egg man. My tomato and onion lady always dashed (gifted) me a few tomatoes. I bought more, things like fruit, filled my bag then started home. I seldom walked home. Someone always stopped to give a ride to the white woman who taught at the school.

Dinner was beef or chicken, usually in a tomato sauce with onions, and yam. One time Thomas cooked beef and the sauce tasted odd. He showed me what he used: cinnamon and nutmeg sent by my mother. He had no idea what they were.

At night I’d read and listen to music. Just before bed, I’d take my cold shower, but if I were quick enough, I’d get some hot water from the pipes which had been heated by the sun. I never dried off so I could air dry and fall asleep.

I found every day exciting. How could it not be living in Africa?

President John F. Kennedy: The Peace Corps

Posted February 28, 2023 by katry
Categories: Video

Unofficial Peace Corps Anthem: Poop in a Hole

Posted February 28, 2023 by katry
Categories: Video